Gemstones: Coral - Morelle Davidson

Organic Gemstone

Precious, or red coral is a variety of marine coral known for its durable bright red or pink skeleton that has been used in jewellery making and decorative arts since antiquity. One of the few organic gemstones, red coral grows on rocky sea bottom in tropical or subtropical waters. The species prefers dark environments with low sedimentation, such as deep caverns or crevices. Coral can be found anywhere between 10 and 1,500 meters below sea level, however as of 2019, the shallower habitats have been significantly diminished due to excessive harvesting. Red coral grows in the shape of small skeletal bushes and can reach up to one meter in height. The gemstone is composed of highly pigmented intermeshed spicules of hard calcium carbonate. It has a relative density of 3.86 and hardness 3.5 on the Mohs scale, which indicates a significant fragility of the stone. The skeleton of free growing coral is naturally matte, and it is usually polished for further use.

**Diamond and white coral ring, Philippine by Van Cleef & Arpels.**

Mythological Origins

Greek mythology describes the origins of coral in the story of Perseus. Having defeated the terrifying Gorgon Medusa, Perseus placed her severed head on the riverbank in order to wash his hands. Blood dripping from the monster’s neck stained the seaweed around, turning it into red coral. Therefore, the Greek word for coral is ‘gorgeia’. The gemstone appears in other Greek lore as well – it is said that the mighty god of the sea, Poseidon resided in a coral palace, and his blacksmith nephew Hephaestus crafted his first work from coral.

History and Use

Due to its naturally appealing demeanour, precious coral has been sought-after for millennia. Many prehistoric and ancient burials in both Europe and north Africa contained jewellery and objects made of the gem. The Gauls used it for the ornamentation of their weapons and helmets. Immensely popular in the Victorian era, this coral continues to be in high demand even today. The early Romans believed that the coral could cure wounds caused by scorpions and snakes, as well as diagnose various diseases by changing its colour. Coral beads were also hung around Roman children’s necks in order to protect them from the outside dangers. The belief in coral’s unique capabilities endured Middle Ages and the first part of the twentieth century: up to the 1930s coral was used by Italian women as a cure for infertility, or as a protection from so called ‘evil eye’. Hindu astrology associate coral with the red planet, Mars, and texts of the Qur’an mention it as one of the gems found in paradise. In West Africa, the Yoruba and Bini people consider coral jewellery as a symbol of high social rank to be worn solely by kings and chieftains. The Native American nation of Navajo observe coral as one of their sacred objects, commonly used in jewellery and ornaments.

**Angel skin coral set, Rose de Noël by Van Cleef & Arpels.**

**Gold and coral set by André Vassort.**

Modern Threats

Climate change and aggressive fishing pose a major threat to the population of precious coral, thus generating the need for establishment of special Marine Protected Areas.