The House of Chaumet began life under the direction of Marie-Étienne Nitot in the 1780s. Nitot was accepted as master goldsmith to the French crown in 1783. His firm, ‘Nitot & Fils’, survived the Revolution and was chosen by Napoleon to set ‘The Regent’, the most important diamond in the state treasury, into his Consular sword.
Marie-Etienne’s son, Francois-Regnault continued the business after his father’s death in 1809, becoming supplier by appointment to the Emperor. Unfortunately none of Francois-Regnault’s children had a desire or flare to take the reigns of the business from their father upon his retirement. Nitot Pere & Fils was passed to the businesses’ foreman, Jean-Baptists Fossin.
Fossin had a keen eye and passion for history, encouraging his designers to seek inspiration from the Louvre and Bibliotheque Royal. Under his guidance the firm successfully supplied jewellery to Napoleon’s wife, Empress Josephine and France’s growing and moneyed bourgeoisie.
Fossin’s son Jules joined the firm in 1832 and made an important connection with Jean-Valentin Morel. This association would lead to the birth of what is now Chaumet. In 1861 Jean-Valentin’s son, Prosper took over the business and in the 1890’s Prosper Morel’s son-in-law, Joseph Chaumet, re-christened ‘Nitot & Fils’, with his own name and began its modernisation. Although Nitot & Fils was successful, winning a medal in the 1819 Exposition des Arts de l’Industrie and boasting Royal Patronage twice, it was under Joseph Chaumet that the business sawed to new heights.
Joseph’s eye for high quality gemstones and pearls attracted investors. His creative imagination produced a series of jewels in keeping with the changing vogue. From lavish parures of matching diamond tiara’s, brooches, earrings, necklaces and bracelets worn for the seasons busy social calendar, to simpler pieces that could be worn by women living increasingly active lives. The air of luxury however, is never missing from a Chaumet design.
Today Chaumet joins the ranks of historic Parisian jewellers that continue to produce exceptional Fine jewellery in the French capital. From 2012 Chaumet joined the luxury goods company, Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH). The current CEO, Jean-Marc Mansvelt was appointed in January 2015 to the present.
The Josephine Collection
Chaumet’s contemporary designs play with the firms French history. The pomp of Emperor Napoleon’s court is hinted at in the imperial motifs used in the ‘Josephine’ collection. The aigrette; a symbol of female imperial authority, reigns supreme in the collection. Chaumet has expertly adapted the aigrette, transforming the traditional headpiece, into a ring. The sweeping feather centre piece characteristic of an aigrette, is replaced by solitaire diamond or pear drop pearl in Chaumet’s rings.
Although, Chaumet’s origins lie in the Romantic style of the French 17thcentury, in recent years they have produced the more androgynous Bolero collection. The Bolero’s chunky gold links have a timeless, as well as genderless, quality making these pieces equally applicable to male or female wearers.
‘Chaumet Behind the Scenes’, portrays the daily life of the Maison through photographs taken by Julien Falsimagne (published November 2019 by La Martiniere).
‘Chaumet in Majesty’ at Grimaldi Forum, Monaco, 12th July – 28th August 2019.
‘Les Mondes de Chaumet’ at The Mitsubishi Ichiagokan Museum, Tokyo, 2018.
‘Imperial Splendour’ at The Palace Museum, Beijing in 2017.
